Entry No. 1
This attempt is a fairly stock build. I used .078 for the rails. The openings in the nose piece need to be enlarged when using .078. I used the lower hypoid type bracket. I chose to cut the pans straight across. I wish I would have waited till I got to the track to use the thinner Dremel disc's!!!!!!!!! The up stop in the center is loose. It is .055 and works well with the .078 rails in keeping the pans flat. I used the Chicagoland brace and was able the run a piece of .055 under it to make a "Ear" brace. JK Tire/Wheels all around. Gears are a Parma 26 T with an ARP 7 T angle pinion.  IRRA rules.
The Winning Builders Names will be announced with result of the competition.
CLICK PHOTOS TO ENLARGE
Please note;- Submitted photo files will be name changed  and any engraving / marking of chassis will be masked out to protect file anonymity prior to voting.
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Entry No. 2

The JKD3 brass was cut into 5 pieces: left and right side pans; left-front and right-front main-frame sections; center-guide tongue section. The motor-center-guide section is separate from the main frame; they are soldered together at the motor bracket / rear axle tubes only (like an unhinged iso-fulcrum). All structural wire is 0.047” steel. The side pans are framed by the structural wire, and have transverse pivots (0.032” wire in 1/16” tube) located under the center pin mount tubes. The front pin tubes (ahead of front wheels) are adjustable for front body width (1/16” tube in 1/32” tube) or optionally can be removed. The motor bracket was notched to allow structural wires to run underneath, and has been modified to mount D3/Falcon/EuroMK small can motors even with chassis bottom or with the motor shaft even with the rear axle; also the motor framing will accept 16D and C can motors should local rules allow. This chassis was built to IRRA rules, but also meets SoCal, NorCal and VECRA D3 Retro chassis rules.
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Entry No. 3

This chassis is built for IRRA rules and a high speed track, such as the Blue King. The chassis has a "Euro" look front nose piece. The chassis is built as light as possible weighing 44.6 grams, so lead can be added as required for maximum traction. The chassis has a single .063 main rail and should trim out ready to race 100 grams.
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Entry No. 4

I wanted to try something different with the JK D3 chassis kit, so I decided to make it into a 4-1/2” in-line drive Nascar. First thing I did was cut apart the main frame into three pieces; I cut the nosepiece to 7/8” wide & the pans to .940” wide. Next I bend a “W” frame from 1/16” piano wire; 5-3/4” for the main rails & 4-3/8” for the pans. The outer rails were bent up slightly for hinge clearance. The hinges are made from 3/32” tubing, 1/2” long & soldered near the ends of the pans. The hinges at the front has to be backed up by 1/8” to avoid binding.

The main rails are doubled up with .047” wire, giving the chassis medium flex, along with the nosepiece. The keepers for the pans are just 3/32” tubing, cut 1/8” long & soldered according. The rear winglets are made from 1/32” brass & reinforced with .055” wire. An inner downstop is soldered to the rear hinges to prevent the pans for dragging. A piece of 3/32” square tubing is soldered at the ends of the winglets as upstops & the pans are captivated with .047” wire. A piece of 1/16” wire is soldered across the pan wire to prevent lifting. The result is controlled independent pan movement.

The holes for the oilites are not 3/16” or 1/4”, it’s something in-between. So I grounded a pair of oilites to fit & soldered them in backwards. This should the rear axle a little more support. The last thing to install is the pin tubing, but the rear tubes have to be split in half. What I came up with is a floating rear tube made from .050” tubing, 1/32” & 1/16” eyelets. I found these 1/32” eyelets at a R/C airplane stone & the .050 tubing fits inside perfectly. I tapped the tubing into the 1/32” eyelet to the length I needed, opened the pin holes to .078” & installed the pin tubes with the 1/16” eyelets. Only a little bit of solder is needed to hold these guys in place. This build was a little easier than my D3 Eurosport Can-Am chassis; only the winglets bear any resemblance of that chassis. Assembly was quick once the parts were fabricated. If this chassis works well, there may be a rebuild in the Can-Am  
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Entry No. 5

I started with the .078" piano wire kit. I widened the cut-outs to allow for the .078" wire and shortened the pans to allow room for the rear tires with a 4" wheelbase.

I cut the pans in half long ways, from the back to the front wheel uprights. I then hinged the pans on the cut. I made the hinges long to give it strength so the pans won't bend in a hard crash.

I then notched out the bottom of the motor bracket to allow for a free-floating piano wire brace to connect the inside part of each pan on each side. This gives it some extra strength as well as allowing some plummer type flex in the front.

I haven't tried it yet but I'm hoping the combination of conventional hinged pans along with plumber type flex will make it handle great.
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Entry No.6

It may the simplest form of the kit where I have taken advantage of the thinness of the pans and have allowed them to stay intact. The result is a plumber effect as the bend up and down so a rail was added to the rear that passes though the bracket. I then added floating / shaker pin tubes. This should work pretty well on a flat track.
I would also like to note that this chassis is built to IRRA specs and in particular to the forthcoming new IRRA "JK Spec" class rules.
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Entry No. 7

Built to So-Cal rules, this chassis has proved to handle well on the track exactly as seen in the photos
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Entry No. 8

This chassis is built to IRRA specifications.
Information about this chassis:
This chassis was built from a 0.078” wire version. It utilizes the plummer concept for its axis of its hinges. The wheelbase is 4”, with the tongue length at 0.9”
One of the major differences is that the front wheels are attached to the pans and not the center section. This allows more movement in the front tires during turning. The hinges are made with 3/32” tubing and 0.055” wire, which allowed more “floppy” movement. They are soldered in with the movement only in the up direction, maintaining flatness in the rest position. The cross members are 0.032”, which aided in independent flex of the pans. As can be seen in the close up of the uprights, the hole for the front axle has been enlarged on the bottom only. This prevents binding of the axle during movement of the pans and still maintains front chassis clearance. The front axle, as well as the front tires independently rotate. Standard and shaker pin tubes are present, to allow additional tightening or loosening of traction.
The chassis has shown great flexibility in tuning as the chassis worked well in winning its first race.
Entry No. 9

This JK build features 2 wire rails of ..062. The rails are only tied together at the nose section and rear motor bracket. The wheelbase is 4" and the complete rolling chassis without body or lead weights 96 grams.
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Entry No. 10

I built this chassis to fit beneath a Truescale McLaren M8B body . We use the SoCal D3 CanAm rules (except for the TSR-only motor restrictions), but the car would also be legal for IRRA racing.
The guide tongue is reinforced with a cut down Slick 7 tongue beneath the original one. The use of bushings for the front axle, the 'M' brace for the front axle vertical supports and the upswept inner brace for the motor bracket are ideas I've borrowed from a different kit build by my friend.
After building around 16 CanAm chassis over a couple of years, I've grown fond of split rear pans to provide some space for adding weight. The ones on this JK chassis are smaller than usual but will still provide a positive downstop for the pans.
The McLaren went well enough in practice but I intend to add a pair of 0.031" rails inside the 0.063" kit ones for some additional rigidity.
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ENTRIES ARE NOW CLOSED & VOTING BEGINS!
Voting Rules.
1) Anyone can vote in this competition
2) Votes must be cast by midnight GMT on the 20th September.
3) You may only vote for ONE chassis.
4) You may only Vote once!
5) Only one vote is allowed per e-mail address.
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Cast you vote by e-mail to  jkvote@hotmail.co.uk
All you need to put in the e-mail is the Entry Number of the chassis you wish to vote for.

We would like to thank all entrants and voters for taking part in this Competition.

YOU VOTE COUNTS!  Use it wisely!
Entry No 11

The chassis is built to the IRRA rules. The chassis uses .078 main rails with .032 hinges. There are pan stops in the front and in the rear. The car has a 4" wheelbase and weighs in at 104.2 grams
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Entry No.12

This is my 1st Retro build so hopefully it will be IRRA/Retro East legal. Those are the rules I built to, or tried to build to. I've only been racing about 18 months so I just tried to keep things as clean and simple as possible.
It's built to a 4" wheel base, so the side pans had about 1/16" shaved off the backs for tire clearance. I switched out the motor bracket so a Falcon 7 can be screwd in. Other than that it is what I would consider a fairly sock build.
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Entry No.13

This chassis was built with the JK .078 rail kit using the hypoid motor bracket. It is built to IRRA rules and is designed for flat and other non-King tracks that are typically used in IRRA racing.
The chassis is designed with a "floating pan" system that uses no hinges for the pan movement. The pan is held in place by four up-stops at the corners of the center section and two cross bars on the pan for the down-stops. This set-up allows the pan to move in all three dimensions. The four corner up-stops can be bent up or down to give more or less vertical movement. The front wheels are mounted to the pan making their movement independent of the center section. The body mounting pins were extended to the edge of the pan from the tabs with 3/32 tubing. Weight is 112 grams ready-to-race less the body.
All in all, an uncomplicated build that handles very smooth and consistently.
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Entry No 14.

This is my version of a stock JK D3 chassis with a few modifications. I cut the pans straight across, leaving a 1/4” to act as the upstops. The rear of the pans were shorten by 1/4” to keep from digging into the rear tires. The hinges were soldered to the ends of the pans & the main rails accordingly, leaving .025” fore & aft movement.

I use .025” wire for the hinges to allow free movement. Two pieces of .032” wire was added to the front hinges to prevent the pans from drooping below the frame. The rear axle tube was made from 7/32” & 1/4” tubing soldered together, forming a strong bond to the stock motor bracket. This is about as stock as it gets.
 
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So That’s it!
Now  it’s time to cast your vote for the best one and that is a judgement which is down to you.
For sure, there are some interesting ideas and some nice neat jobs too.

We hope that the competition has given you some ideas of what you can do with the chassis and I would like to thank the guys who took the time to enter and share their ideas with the World on what can be done with this great, low cost kit.

Results will be announced on the 20th September.

TO VOTE  - CHECK THE RULES AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE AND THEN E-MAIL YOUR VOTE (STATING THE ENTRY NUMBER ONLY) TO  jkvote@hotmail.co.uk

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Andy Brown-Searle (web master)
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