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Before assembling the chassis, lightly trim the vertical face of the motor bracket with a dremel and grinding disk. This will give you a perfect fit for the Falcon motor in the motor box.
Align and solder in the rear axle bushings, ensure axle height is level using either axle jigs or two identical diameter spur gears.
Fit axle and spur gear, align Falcon motor.
Solder pinion on motor shaft in correct position and cut off excess motor shaft length.
Re align motor, ensuring gear mesh is perfect, with minimal gear “lash”. Solder motor to motor box upright. Check gear mesh and then slide the rear motor brace flush to the back of the motor. Solder to motor can and solder the entire length of the bracket flush to the rear of the motor box. (when you change motor, leave this bracket in place and just unsolder from the motor can. This will give you a reference to realign the new motor).
Slide a pin through the front wheel and solder to the lower hole in the front axle upright
Solder the pre-cut pin tubes into the body mount holes.
Fit guide, guide spacers and nut, ensure the guide moves smoothly.
Fit lead wire clips and braids and solder on lead wires. Slip wires through the lead wire clip on the centre section of the chassis and connect to the motor.

True your choice of rear tyres to give between 0.8 & 0.6mm ground clearance and fit.
Set up your car on a tech block.
On the track the front horns of the chassis should run a couple of “thou” of the track and you should see clearance between the chassis and the block / track.
Should you need to tweek the side pan elevation, do this by tweeking the “Pan Arm” which overlays the front T Bar. (bend down to elevate pan or up to drop pan)
Should the “Bite Bar” become bent, this can be changed for a length of 0.55 piano wire. Ensure you cut the correct length. Cut the original bar with a dremel and “spring in” the replacement wire
Mount your favourite body, put the car in the slot